El Mercado

Invariably, one of my ”go-tos” when traveling is heading to the market. Be it the farmers’ market in Ojai, California or the Mercato in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, (Africa’s biggest open air market, covering several square miles); it is guaranteed to offer an “immersion experience”. Its history is often revealing as well. For example, the Mercato was moved during the 1930’s Italian occupation; its previous location became known as the Piazza with an array of European-style products.

One of the things that led me to falling in love with San Miguel de Allende, was its “mercado”. First though a few images from Ethiopia taken in 2019.

During a walk — with plenty of pauses, I always appreciate the many flavors of the local culture: the people, produce, crafts such as rugs, leather belts or ceramics and more practical items such as batteries, soaps, and kitchen utensils. Here, in Mexico, you may also come across rows and rows of cowboy boots and sombreros. Of course, for a local, including an ex-pat such as myself in San Miguel de Allende, it’s not just for the colors, smells, sounds and basically “atmosphere”, but to stock up on avocados, oranges, melons, limes, bananas plus whatever I might fancy trying such as maguey. The icing on the cake on my last stop: the flower market.

It’s also about interacting and using as best I can my Spanish with the vendors. In large part, they are women, some of whom I’ve come to know over the years who often will give me a little regalo as I hand them my pesos.

Little did I realize back in 2010 that our home, on a narrow, cobblestone street, would be a stones’ throw from the bustling artisanal market contiguous with the extensive Ignacio Ramirez food market. Named after a 19th century statesman, also known as El Nigromante, born in San Miguel, it makes for the heart-throb of the “centro historico”. It also adjoins three major 18th century churches so that one can feed one’s soul as well as one’s tummy.

And let’s not forget a more traditional, “macho” presence:

Another impressive and even more extensive but bordering on the chaotic mercado, is the Tianguis. Open only on Tuesdays and just outside of town, it offers everything from pineapples to power tools while providing protection from the sun with its kaleidoscope of brightly colored tents. Tantalizing the senses and scattered all about, are vendors providing warm tortillas, gorditas, tamales, salsas, and roasted corn slathered with mayonnaise. And let’s not forget a good source of protein: grasshoppers or chapulines, from the Nahuatl word, chapolin. A “seasonal” delicacy, they are roasted on a traditional, cast iron comal.

At the other end of the spectrum is the recent, elegant, impeccably clean, Dean & DeLuca style of super market: the “City Market”. With its endless aisles of Asian delicacies, coffees, European cheeses and charcuteries, Haagen- Dasz ice creams (among others), wines and, let’s not forget, Le Creuset crockery, another world awaits behind its electric doors. And, fortunately, you can use a credit card. Don’t forget to bring a bag or two…

Favoring smaller, local abarrotes or grocery stores, I’ll walk any day to the Guadelupe barrio with its street art galore. Here, at Gil’s, a parrot will assist you in choosing the perfect mushroom — or, if you’re lucky, a plastic container.

To learn more about San Miguel: san-miguel-de-allende