HAVANA VIEJA

Continued from HORIZONS page: 

Strolling past Spanish Colonial plazas such as the Plaza de Armas and Baroque churches and navigating narrow streets, shaded by balconies reminiscent of New Orleans, or hopping into a “ tuk tuk” allowed us to explore this fascinating city on our own. No group or tour guide. We had simply boarded a plane in Mexico City and were on the island in an hour. Our passport wasn’t stamped. I remember an American friend actually asking that HIS passport be stamped.

Established by the Spanish in the 16th century, Havana sports many layers of history. Contradictions abound though. On the one hand, you have the elegant Art Deco 'Bacardi' building; on the other, the former, drab and imposing Soviet embassy. (As I write this, the US embassy has just re-opened after over three decades. No wonder it could also use a face-lift — and probably much more.

At times, the more recent renovations make some buildings look more like façades awaiting a new lease on life. While sipping a Mojito on the small roof of our hotel in the historic district, we couldn’t help but notice how dark the city looked with only a few buildings lit.

In the next few days I couldn’t help but peer through doors ajar into some of the buildings that are not museums, churches or hotels. With my iPhone, I could gingerly capture images that tell a story but are, in fact tragic: peeling, stained, washed out walls, dilapidated ceilings, light bulbs hanging by a string and sundry items strewn about. At times there was a clear contrast between inside and out; at others many of the exteriors were begging to be repainted. But where are the means to do this?

And although housing, just like education and health care, is guaranteed by the government, much of the population continues to cope with crowded, even unsanitary conditions. Infrastructure such as plumbing is spotty. Even in our 4 star hotel hot water wasn’t guaranteed.... Nor was the Internet. To send our son, Daniel, an email birthday greeting I searched in vain for a hotel that could offer what we take for granted back home. Finding a functional ATM machine to buy him a present was also a challenge.

Contradictions abound. In our room we could get CNN and BBC on the TV. But, as we learned, this is only available in hotels.  Private homes have little access to what is still controlled by the government. The media is in "official" hands. I was soon reminded of my visit to the former Soviet Union in the late 1980’s where government bureaucracy — and long lines, reigned. Of course, Cuba, in its glorious Caribbean colors sports a totally different vibe. Literally. Here music and dance abound on the streets, especially the Malecon by the water. (I did tire though of the endless playing of Guantanamera for the tourists...)

I never tired though of being blown away by this 500 year old Spanish port to the New World with its rich and complex history. It was one of a kind in our former travels. Fortunately, after decades of decay and poverty, exacerbated during the “Special Period” when the Soviet government collapsed and the US embargo remained in limbo, Cuba is being given a new lease on life. One landmark moment took place for Havana Vieja in 1982 when it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  With its cocktail of Baroque, Neo-Classical and Art Deco architecture, small, cobblestoned walking streets, lined with houses sporting arcades, balconies, wrought-iron gates and courtyards, it is a feast for the eyes. I hope to return one day to explore the island including the famous town of Santiago.

 ¡Viva Cuba!