For over two years, I haven’t seen much in pubic spaces that looks particularly celebratory. Yes, concerts are returning but street life continues to have an austere quality. While being outdoors — in particular in nature or city parks has been our go-to and yes, salvation, festive clothes have been stashed away in the closet. There just don’t seem to be any occasions for enjoying them.

When I push aside the clothes hangers that I’ve barely moved for what feels like an eternity, I’ve sometimes wondered: When if ever will I wear them? Just give them away? How about make-up? — forget it (or almost). Jewelry? Either in a safety deposit box or lost in a drawer. On the positive side, life during Covid became more simple and basic (plus not wearing a bra is liberating as in the 1960’s). Things are changing though — finally.

Here I am in colorful Mexico! On a recent weekday, my heart was warmed when I discovered a group of women on Calle Aldama, an iconic cobblestone street in San Miguel de Allende. Before me were dancers posing for a photo shoot in their fanciful, traditional costumes all with head ornamentations, jewelry, and yes, a heavy dose of makeup bordering on face painting. No masks for the moment.

 
 
 

Upon returning here in January after two years of ‘exodus’, I was impressed by how most, including young people on the street were donning masks. Sadly, this is not always the case with visiting gringos which kind of feels insulting in my perception. Here, it’s still a mandate which most respect. And of course, each store, hotel or restaurant displays a sign requiring masks indoors — at least till you enjoy a marguerita or tamale. Some places, such as my bank, will take your temperature and then squirt a little sanitizing gel in your hands. It does get to be a bit much…

 

Considering the rich, ancient and varied cultural history of mask making here, creative patterns and embroideries on protective masks should come as no surprise. “Cobrebocas”, or “mouth coverings” hang on the doors of many little bodegas. Price? 50 pesos or $2.50. In the slide show below is a long poster with the words in Spanish “Mask Use is Obligatory”. (For the design here I had to crop them .

 

With such a predilection for fanciful dresses, hair styles and accessories, one shouldn’t be surprised to come across a scene like this one below. But this was even more special. The long red dress, red mask and even the horses’ harnesses were perfectly color coordinated, even matching . Her crown gave away that a pageant was about to begin.

Another well known occasion in Mexico for donning fancy feminine garb is the celebration of a “quincineira” or a girl’s coming of age. As in a prom or wedding. it offers a fifteen year old an occasion to be all decked out. The scene below bears a certain similarity to the horse and buggy above except it’s a fancy motorcycle. Sadly, many families can’t afford such a way of advertising that the girl is ready to be married. Not only does it require paying for the fiesta, the dress — which I heard gets bought not rented, but the church as well…A cleaning lady I know chose instead to give some money to her daughter to travel.

 
 

From the quinciniera in blue to masked kids in blue jeans by a market, to a young scowling dancer, we come to the “mojigangas”. Originally from Spain in the 1600’s these towering puppets with heads made like pinatas were once meant to be politically satirical. Today it’s all about fun. Swaying about as they stride high above us, they, along with mariachis, offer a highlight at festivities such as weddings and even conventions. A signature piece of San Miguel street life. You just have to take a walk and be surprised.